Saturday, February 2, 2013

Can we have a Chwee Kueh revolution?

It is interesting to see "same same but different" food in different parts of the world. Quite obviously, recipes are modified to suit local tastes and perhaps more importantly to suit local ingredients available (transportation is not as advanced in the past). One such food item is "chwee kueh".

photo from ieatishootipost.sg

I like the "chwee kueh" in Ghim Moh market and is very appreciative of Dr Leslie's write up in his ieatishootipost blog. In it, he unraveled the mystery as to why it is called "chwee kueh" and also pointed out the difference between the usual sweet and savoury topping and their salty savoury kind (Do read the post, it is very informative!). He also pointed out that our local version is "uniquely Singaporean". The ones in Swatow has fried shallot oil instead of chye poh whereas in Malaysia the size is different.

But one of the lesser known facts highlighted is the fact that in the past, the molds used were made of clay. This reminds me that when I was young, I never knew "chwee kueh" as "chwee kueh". Being Cantonese, I was taught that it is called "buud zai go" (砵仔糕) or "little bowl cake". A "buud" is a shallow bowl and is also associated to the bowl used by monks to ask for alms, and it is made of clay.

In Hong Kong, they also sell "buud zai go". They look like this:


Other than the shape, nothing else is the same (they still use clay molds though...). The size is bigger, and they tastes sweet. Usually eaten as desserts or snacks, the original versions are made with rice mixture and sugar. My ancestral town "pan yu" (番禺) is famous for cane sugar and it is common for the southern Chinese to use cane sugar in it's "brown" state, hence creating a brownish "buud zai go" in addition to the white ones that uses white sugar. As time passes, red beans and other sweet ingredients (even chocolate!) are added to make it even more appealing and less simple.

Over in Vietnam, I was introduced to a Hue dish called Banh Beo for the first time when I visited Tib Restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City (This is a MUST go restaurant in HCMC... but more on that another time).


 Don't they look familiar? Also rice cakes... but in saucers. They have toppings of dried shrimp, scallions and fried shallots, rice vinegar and oil. You add fish sauce (nuoc mam - common in the Viet, Thai regions) and Vietnamese fresh chilli before eating it. Absolutely fantastic (I dare say my favourite version among the 3 regions)! Firstly, the dried shrimp is packed with flavour which is brought out nicely with the light fish sauce. Fresh Viet chilli has a nice fragrance to it and packs a powerful punch (really spicy!). But the key that ties all the flavour together is the little bit of vinegar. I've tried the Banh Beo at La Viet restaurant in Singapore and they are a far cry from Tib's (mainly because they didn't use dried shrimp). Oh, almost forgot, Banh Beo means "Water fern cake"... and they typically have a "dimple" in the middle... exactly the same explanation why chwee kueh is called chwee kueh. ;)

So, coming back to Singapore... must chwee kueh be the chwee kueh that we know? Can we have some innovation for product differentiation? Of course! Someone should experiment with different toppings... or like the ones in Hong Kong, put the additional ingredients into the kueh itself. All sorts of variations can be created... simply because the "kueh" is a pure canvas, white, almost tasteless and smooth in texture... just waiting for creative additions to make a masterpiece.


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